Stockholm’s Best Restaurant 2014: 4th Place – Oaxen Slip

av senses.se 4 November 2014

We arrived at Oaxen, situated on Djurgården at Beckholmsvägen 21. The location is particularly appealing during the summer months, offering an outdoor terrace with views of the waterfront and Gröna Lund. The restaurant’s interior features open spaces and high ceilings. Tables are upholstered in rust-brown leather, and overhead, recreational boats and rowboats are suspended, immediately establishing a nautical ambiance.

Oaxen Slip. Photo: senses.se

The menu presents a range of compelling options. Guests can opt for the multi-course tasting menus (6-10 courses at Oaxen Krog) or select smaller plates at Oaxen Slip, the restaurant’s more casual bistro. The kitchen offers interpretations of Nordic bistro cuisine, with dishes exhibiting considerable culinary innovation.

Based on our server’s recommendation, we chose the Wild Duck from Ornö (with the caveat that it may contain buckshot), grilled breast & thigh ragout with pumpkin & ginger-pickled chanterelles (215 SEK), and oven-grilled Arctic char from Piteå (170 SEK). For side dishes, we selected grilled broccoli with onion vinaigrette & roasted, grated Dura cheese (50 SEK), pumpkin mash with pickled pumpkin & roasted garlic, Jerusalem artichoke gratin with Västerbotten cheese (60 SEK), and smoked mayonnaise (25 SEK). When we considered ordering additional sides, the waiter advised against it, assuring us that our existing selections would be sufficient.

Wild Duck from Ornö. Photo: senses.se

The sommelier recommended an aged, red wine from 2001, Bressan No 3 (described as a mature wine), a French blend of schioppettino, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir. The wine exhibited notes reminiscent of a light port, with a pronounced oak character. While not ideally suited for casual drinking, it proved to be an excellent complement to the Wild Duck from Ornö, which was expertly prepared and flavorful.

For the Arctic char from Piteå, a white Riesling, C.A.I, was suggested, providing a crisp and refreshing counterpoint. The fish possessed a delicate texture and offered a clean, buttery taste. Among the side dishes, the pumpkin and grilled broccoli were particularly noteworthy. The Jerusalem artichoke with Västerbotten cheese, however, seemed slightly undercooked and retained a hint of raw potato flavor.

Oven-grilled Arctic char from Piteå. Photo: senses.se

Oaxen offers a pleasant ambiance, characterized by a comfortable noise level and subdued lighting. The attentive and knowledgeable staff further enhanced the dining experience. Overall, the meal was exceptional, and we would gladly return.