TL;DR
Lilla Ego is a gem in Stockholm, serving up delicious, artfully presented seasonal dishes in a surprisingly unpretentious yet chic setting. Despite its popularity and celebrity chef owners, the vibe is relaxed and friendly, even offering a tic-tac-toe game while you wait for a table. From the melt-in-your-mouth turbot to the perfectly balanced beef dish, the focus on technique and flavor shines. While the meat portions might leave carnivores wanting a bit more, the overall experience is captivating. Discover why this understated spot is worth the hype – read the full review to dive into all the delicious details!
Daniel Räms, one half of the chef duo at Lilla Ego. Photo: senses.se
Having heard considerable praise for Lilla Ego (Västmannagatan 69), helmed by award-winning chefs Tom Sjöstedt and Daniel Räms, we decided to experience it firsthand. Located just off Odenplan, the restaurant presents a somewhat unassuming facade. Online reservations are consistently fully booked, so we opted for a Thursday evening drop-in, as suggested. Despite being a weekday evening, the restaurant was bustling. After being informed of a 45-minute wait, we were directed to a cozy, candle-lit corridor with two welcoming stools. We settled in and ordered the house calvados grog with apple cider (95 SEK). A tic-tac-toe game is available to entertain guests awaiting a table.
Our attention was drawn to the exposed red-brick walls, the well-worn restroom door, and the acclaimed reviews displayed along the walls. The ambiance reflects simplicity, yet maintains a distinct contemporary feel. It’s an unpretentious yet refined environment. The seasonal menus, handwritten in marker on large A2 sheets and displayed above the counter, feature a subtle humor that elicits amusement. It’s clear that this charming, understated establishment doesn’t take itself too seriously, living up to its name.
After approximately thirty minutes, we were seated at the counter, offering an unobstructed view into the open kitchen and the chefs’ meticulous work. Observing their process is captivating, easily comparable to an artist carefully composing a painting as they delicately arrange each prepared element on the plates.
Parsley root with dry-aged beef and cress. Photo: senses.se
We selected the turbot and emulsion with flavors from the sea, the most expensive dish on the menu (325 SEK), and the parsley root with dry-aged beef and cress (295 SEK), recommended by our server. We paired the fish with a white Riesling from Austria, Little Buteo (125 SEK/glass), which exhibited a somewhat subtle and effervescent character, and the meat with a red Bordeaux, Petit Barriot (120 SEK/glass). The Bordeaux, while perhaps lacking the depth for standalone enjoyment, proved a suitable complement to the dish.
While awaiting our order, we were presented with freshly baked bread accompanied by grated butter infused with crushed sunflower seeds – a notable start.
Shortly thereafter, Tom Sjöstedt himself presented and described our selections. The visual presentation of each dish was remarkable. The initial taste was exceptional; the turbot, paired with what resembled a cauliflower purée, practically melted in the mouth. The flavors were delicate and well-rounded, punctuated by the burst of pickled cucumbers. The composition of each plate demonstrated careful consideration and precise execution. The dry-aged beef was equally impressive, showcasing a successful balance of sweet, sour, and savory elements.
Turbot and emulsion with flavors from the sea. Photo: senses.se
The chefs highlight the vegetables, employing roasting, pickling, smoking, and grilling techniques to enhance their flavors and presentation. However, the portion of dry-aged beef (approximately 100g) felt somewhat modest, leading to the perception that this “meat dish” leaned heavily towards vegetables.
Nonetheless, we thoroughly enjoyed each bite and found ourselves captivated by Lilla Ego. The understated decor, welcoming atmosphere, and attentive staff create a desire for a return visit. Although a larger portion of meat would have been appreciated, the experience provided by the exquisitely prepared dishes left a lasting positive impression.
Missed any part of our series Best Restaurants in Stockholm 2014? See the list here!
