Review: Restaurang YOLO

UPDATE: As is often the case in the competitive restaurant industry, YOLO has since closed permanently.

Upon entering the much-discussed restaurant YOLO at Djursholm Square, one immediately notices the intimate size of the establishment. With bar stools included, the space accommodates approximately 40 patrons. The atmosphere is both cozy and authentic. A large portrait of Greta Garbo’s contemplative face adorns one wall, while a bookshelf extending to the high ceiling covers another.

The staff are welcoming and accommodating, readily adjusting a table to provide access to our seats along the wall, where seating was at capacity. While the limited space is a minor drawback, it is quickly forgotten upon being served a delectable, freshly baked buttermilk bread and a maccaron with foie gras and dried cabbage – a perfect amuse-bouche to stimulate the palate.

For the appetizers, we opted for the shrimp tacos with chili jam and pickled radish (95 SEK) and the braised celeriac with truffle and cabbage (115 SEK). The flavor profiles were compelling, particularly the shrimp tacos, reminiscent of shrimp chips, exhibiting a bold combination of salty, sour, spicy, and sweet notes. The dish displayed creativity, offering a distinctive signature. I found the concept tastefully executed, while my colleague felt the passion fruit was slightly overpowering, preferring a greater emphasis on the core flavors. The portion size (five mini tacos) also seemed somewhat substantial for an appetizer.

For the main course, we selected the veal and sweetbreads with a carrot variation and Västerbotten cheese (315 SEK), along with the turbot with cabbage and pear (285 SEK). The veal’s texture was superb, and the sweetbreads were a pleasant surprise, perfectly seared. The outer fillet, richer in fat content, harmonized exceptionally well with the 2008 Amarone.

The turbot was presented artfully on the plate, arranged upon a bed of cabbage, emphasizing height. The dish had a refined, fresh, and acidic character. The fish had a smooth mouthfeel, melting harmoniously with the foamed sauce. A minor issue was the presence of several bones encountered while consuming the fish. Otherwise, the portions were well-considered and generous. However, the resulting satiety prevented us from ordering dessert.

We departed the restaurant feeling full and satisfied. YOLO’s willingness to experiment with innovative flavors and challenge Stockholm’s culinary landscape is commendable, and despite its slightly remote location, it merits a visit.