TL;DR
Systembolaget's recent price adjustments saw a moderate 2% increase on wine and beer. Amidst pandemic shifts towards quality over quantity, Barolo sales are booming, up 28%. This review dives into the Luna di Mezzanotte Barolo DOCG 2017, a Nebbiolo-based wine from Piedmont, known for its rich soil and cool climate contributing to aromatic complexity. Expect powerful floral notes, dark berries, and a structure with high tannins, making it ideal for aging or pairing with hearty, earthy dishes. While its assertive character and tannins might not please everyone, it offers excellent value in its price bracket. Discover if this classic Italian is your next cellar addition!
Systembolaget, the Swedish alcohol retail monopoly, recently updated its pricing, a biannual adjustment. This time, wine and beer prices increased by an average of 2%, a moderate adjustment considering the current climate of significant inflation and currency fluctuations. Interestingly, Swedish alcohol consumption patterns appear to have shifted during the COVID-19 pandemic. While some increased their overall consumption, many opted for less quantity and improved quality. Notably, sales of Piedmontese wines at Systembolaget rose by 36% in 2021, with Barolo experiencing a 28% increase. This review focuses on a Barolo from Piedmont, the 2017 vintage of Luna di Mezzanotte Barolo DOCG 2017 (article number 53288, SEK 189, price unchanged), a follow-up to the Barbera d’Alba released in 2021.
As with many “Old World” wines, understanding the geographical origin is crucial. Barolo is a village and a DOCG within the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. “Piemonte” translates to “at the foot of the mountain,” a name bestowed by the ancient Romans due to its location at the base of the Alps. The Nebbiolo grape is the dominant variety, and Luna di Mezzanotte is no exception, being crafted entirely from Nebbiolo grapes. This is a prerequisite for Barolo wines, which must also undergo a minimum aging period of 38 months, with at least 18 months spent in oak. The region is known for its culinary use of truffles from the surrounding forests of Alba. The adage “poor soil yields rich wines” holds true here. The vineyards, situated on the hills around Alba, feature heavy clay soil containing volcanic rock with lime elements, contributing to the wine’s structure. The relatively cool climate promotes slow maturation, enhancing the aromatic complexity of the grapes.
Upon pouring, the tasting panel assessed the bouquet, noting distinct oak notes alongside prominent floral aromas of roses and violets. Recurring observations included flavors of berries, cherries, and sloes. The wine presented a deep, dark red hue with subtle highlights. It exhibits a powerful yet elegant character, described as possessing both “masculine and feminine qualities.”
After allowing the wine to aerate, it was paired with a rustic Italian meal: grilled chicken, robust homemade tomato sauce, and charred bell peppers. This pairing enhanced the wine’s perceived sweetness and finesse, which is understandable given its 2 grams of sugar per liter. While not high, this level is noticeably sweeter than some drier Italian wines from neighboring areas. The 14% alcohol content amplifies the wine’s flavors and aromas. Its pleasant roundness highlights the value proposition of wines in the SEK 100-200 range compared to those priced lower. The flavor profile of Barolo may not appeal to all red wine enthusiasts, and the price can be a deterrent. The high tannin content, a polarizing characteristic, makes Barolo wines suitable for aging (ideally 8-15 years). However, it can also impart a firm, tart, and even acidic quality that may not suit every palate, as experienced by one panel member. Those who appreciate pronounced flavors and structure may find it a suitable accompaniment to classic autumnal dishes like wild grouse with chanterelles and buttery mashed potatoes (inspired by Leif Mannerström’s recipe). The addition of truffles would also complement this Barolo.
To conclude the experience, Italian gelato proved to be a fitting dessert pairing for this classic Italian wine, which continues to enjoy a strong following.
Jurymedlem #1 – 7 “Likes with food. A good mix of power and finesse”
Jurymedlem # 2 – 9 “Very, very good – powerful, challenging and almost perfect for game with hearty flavors”
Jurymedlem # 3 – 4 “Not my thing. Appreciates the craftsmanship, but the tannin content does not make it pleasant in my palate.”
Nigab provided a sample for this review. Submission of materials does not influence our editorial content.
