Bronze winners, from left: Gondolen’s Björn Wahlund (chef), Ragnar Boman (restaurant manager) and Lennart Harlins (head chef). Photo: senses.se
Commanding a view of Södermalm and uniquely positioned next to the Katarina Elevator, Eriks (Lallerstedt’s) Gondolen stands as one of Stockholm’s most recognizable landmarks. This elevated establishment, resembling a sophisticated crane over Slussen and Söder Mälarstrand, attracts patrons with its panoramic views, seasonal menus, and distinctive service.
The anticipation of a special experience begins during the ascent to Gondolen. Similar to Himlen Därtill, a more recent addition to Stockholm’s dining scene, the location offers a captivating perspective of the capital, particularly when illuminated. Passing through the entrance and bar, guests arrive at the restaurant situated within the skybridge itself. Optimal seating is, of course, by a window, ideally facing Slussen for the most impressive vista.
Gondolen’s menu is appropriately concise and seasonally driven. Patrons can select either a tasting menu reflecting the current season, with or without accompanying wine pairings, or choose from the à la carte offerings. Prices begin just above SEK 300, which is currently considered the standard mid-range price point in Stockholm. We were greeted by a knowledgeable and amiable waiter who possessed a strong understanding of the menu and provided insightful recommendations based on our preferences. Adhering to our practice of sampling both a meat/fish dish and a vegetarian option, we selected the seasonal meat offering: Swedish autumn lamb with fried cutlet, confit brisket and grilled sausage, served with chanterelles, pumpkin, manchego cheese and herb broth (SEK 315).
Swedish autumn lamb – Eriks Gondolen. Photo: senses.seThis lamb preparation exhibited excellent balance. The lamb fillet was notably tender, flavorful, and succulent, without any residual gaminess sometimes encountered. The integration of sweet, cinnamon-infused pumpkin alongside the savory lamb sausage demonstrated remarkable finesse. The recommended wine pairing, a Spanish Emilio Moro (SEK 145/glass), further enhanced the dining experience. The only minor flaw was a somewhat thick strip of fat on the brisket, which rendered it slightly unctuous. Overall, however, this dish was a standout, proving surprisingly substantial despite its modest portion size.
Seared and pickled pumpkin. Photo: senses.se
The vegetarian dish consisted of Seared and pickled pumpkin with cream, served with mushrooms, smoked broccoli, salt-roasted almonds and truffle (SEK 215:-). The presentation was visually appealing, with a harmonious color palette, and the dish initially promised a delightful experience. It was evident that considerable care and attention had been invested in its preparation. The interplay of sweet and savory notes, along with the smoked broccoli, was well-executed, but the dish ultimately lacked a certain element to truly invigorate the palate. While aesthetically pleasing, the flavor profile proved somewhat less exciting than anticipated. However, the wine selection, a lighter-bodied red Clos Henri Pinot Noir (SEK 145/glass), was exceptionally well-chosen. Commendation is due to our knowledgeable waiter, who demonstrated expertise in recommending wines that complemented both the dishes and our individual preferences.
Finding significant shortcomings at Gondolen is challenging. The venue is stylish, enjoys a prime location, and typically delivers exceptional cuisine and service, a standard consistently maintained over the years. The space can feel somewhat confined and tourist-frequented, which marginally detracts from the overall ambiance. Furthermore, the attentiveness of some waitresses was not entirely consistent, occasionally falling short of the impeccable service expected at this price point (e.g., proper dish presentation, timely glass refills).
Nevertheless, Eriks Gondolen remains a restaurant that warrants its esteemed reputation and the high demand for evening reservations.
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