TL;DR
B.A.R. in Stockholm offers a relaxed, market-hall vibe with a focus on fresh seafood. While the decor is understated, the live lobster tank and deli-style fish counter are highlights. Service is friendly and helpful, though recommendations might be formulaic. The menu boasts a wide array of seafood, but lacks vegetarian options and has limited, pricey meat choices. Appetizers and mains are reasonably priced, but the wine markups are steep. Dishes like gratinated scallops and the seafood mixed grill are expertly prepared, though sides and seasoning can be hit or miss. Discover if B.A.R. is your next go-to seafood spot by reading the full review!
Located in Blasieholmen, just behind the historic Grand Hotel, is B.A.R (Blasieholmens Akvarium & Restaurang, Blasieholmsgatan 4A). This establishment, from the team behind the considerably more exclusive Lux on Lilla Essingen, known for its prix fixe tasting menus, focuses on fish and seafood specialties, evoking a familiar ambiance of a marina and market hall.
The initial impression is somewhat understated. B.A.R’s decor is relatively sparse, featuring rows of wooden tables and chairs in a space that leans more towards a dining hall aesthetic. However, the aquarium housing live lobsters (available for selection at SEK 650 / kg) and the “market hall,” resembling a delicatessen counter with a variety of fish, seafood, and select cuts of meat, invite closer inspection. A wall-mounted price list displays daily prices, reflecting the current catch. This creates a sense of a fishing shack and a West Coast atmosphere within the city.
The tables are positioned closely, perhaps less ideal for intimate dates or private conversations. As the restaurant fills, however, a sense of conviviality develops. Subdued pop music plays in the background, creating a moderate level of ambient noise that is not intrusive. The clientele is casually dressed, contributing to a relaxed, almost post-beach atmosphere. The service is prompt and amiable; our waiter provided attentive service and candid recommendations – and counter-recommendations – which was appreciated. One member of our party, overhearing conversations at other tables, noted that the recommendations seemed somewhat uniform, suggesting a potentially formulaic, though clearly effective, approach.
B.A.R specializes in an extensive selection of fish and seafood dishes, ranging from diverse appetizers to main courses, grilled specialties, deli counter selections, and a variety of side dishes. Meat options are limited, with a few relatively expensive choices such as roast beef and entrecote available. Vegetarian options are conspicuously absent; while side dishes can be combined for a vegetarian meal (at SEK 35 each), this is not particularly compelling, especially considering the ease with which a vegetarian risotto, for example, could be offered. Prices are generally reasonable, with appetizers (suitable for sharing) priced around SEK 150-175, and main courses around SEK 200-250, in addition to side dishes at SEK 35 each and sauces at SEK 18 each.
Following a recommendation, we selected the Gratinerade Pilgrimsmusslor (Gratinated Scallops, SEK 165) as an appetizer. The dish was beautifully presented, with a scallop served in an elegant shell. The gratin, composed of asparagus, tarragon, and a white wine sauce, complemented the dish perfectly. The scallops themselves were expertly prepared, achieving a perfect medium-rare consistency, avoiding both a raw and an overcooked, chewy texture.
We were also guided towards a white wine pairing, the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc The Crossings, lauded for its versatility and flavor profile. While the wine was indeed excellent and well-matched, the price of SEK 580 (compared to a retail price of SEK 88 at the state liquor store) seemed disproportionately high. Restaurants are expected to profit from alcohol sales, but a 660% markup feels excessive and could be perceived as compensatory pricing for the relatively affordable food menu. A markup in the range of 300-350% would have been more reasonable.
For our main course, we opted for another recommended dish: the Fisk och Skaldjurs Mixed Grill (Fish and Seafood Mixed Grill), served for two (SEK 590 total). This platter showcased a variety of grilled seafood delicacies: three types of fish (selected daily by the chef), two langoustines, two scallops, and half a lobster. We accompanied this with two recommended side dishes each: french fries, grilled broccoli, grilled aubergine, grilled paprika with feta cheese. The french fries were the standout, followed by the perfectly acceptable broccoli and the somewhat bland aubergine, which lacked significant flavor and was served with onion and tapenade. The paprika had a pleasant grilled surface but felt undercooked. The feta cubes were placed on top rather than melted inside, which would have enhanced the flavor. The accompanying sauces, Herb and Spice Butter and Lobster Vinaigrette, provided the primary seasoning for the fish and seafood, which were intentionally prepared without salt or spices. This approach divided opinions: one diner appreciated the ability to season to taste, while another found the flavors too subtle. The fish – arctic char, plaice, and hake – were indeed expertly grilled, achieving a flavorful surface while remaining perfectly juicy, neither raw nor overcooked. Overall, the main course and side dishes were well-received by the entire party.
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