104 meters above sea level, one of Stockholm’s premier dining locations awaits: Och Himlen Därtill (commonly known as restaurant Himlen). Situated atop the former Tax Authority skyscraper in Södermalm, this establishment boasts a luxurious penthouse ambiance, reminiscent of Las Vegas, perched above student residences and the Paradox game development studio.
A key consideration for patrons of Himlen is its dual-level layout. The bar area, located on the upper level, offers a stunning 360-degree panorama of Stockholm, one of Europe’s most picturesque cities. However, guests are often automatically seated in a smaller dining room two floors below, with a limited view. To secure a spot in the bar area, it’s essential to call and specifically request it. This is a significant point that Himlen should clearly communicate on its website during the booking process, as the lower dining room lacks the atmosphere and impressive views of the upper level.
View from the dining room – Och Himlen Därtill. Photo: senses.se
Upon its initial launch, Himlen positioned itself as a “premium” dining experience. This sparked debate within Södermalm, a district known for its blend of political activism and affluent media professionals, where accessibility is often valued. Following early criticism regarding service and culinary ambition, Himlen has since refined its approach, focusing on seasonal menus and engaging new culinary talent.
Despite initial seating in the lower dining room, we were greeted courteously and promptly seated. As noted, the menu is seasonal and subject to change, offering 5-7 appetizers and main courses, complemented by 3-4 desserts. The selection emphasizes both fish and meat dishes, with main courses priced slightly above the average, around 300 SEK. In seeking recommendations, we engaged the waiter for insights into the menu. This interaction proved less informative than expected. The waiter acknowledged a lack of familiarity with the updated menu and an uncertainty regarding our preferences. This is noteworthy for an establishment aspiring to a high-end dining experience. While waiters aren’t expected to intuit guest preferences, the ability to confidently describe the main courses, highlight their distinct characteristics, and offer informed recommendations—taking into account flavor profiles, spice levels, and chef specialties—is crucial. Instead, a general inquiry about meat or fish preference was offered, prompting us to order one of each: Baked fillets of plaice and langoustine with Jerusalem artichoke puree and browned soy butter (325:-) and Beef tenderloin with chanterelles, Puy lentils, oxtail and bourdelais sauce (395:-). A white wine for the fish, a Pouilly-Fuissè (160:-), and a red Gigondas from France, Santa Duc (169:-), were recommended as pairings.
Prior to the entrees, we were presented with fresh bread and whipped butter, a delightful start to the meal. A selection of soft white and dark bread was complemented by a flavorful seed crisp.
Photo: senses.se
The entrees were served with precision. Two waiters simultaneously presented the plates, wearing gloves and exhibiting excellent timing. The head waiter poured the sauce over the beef tenderloin and briefly described the dish. This professional and refined service is expected of a high-caliber restaurant, providing a heightened sense of attentiveness in the dining experience.
The fish arrived artfully arranged and proved flavorful, especially the Jerusalem artichoke puree and the Arctic char fillet rolls. However, the dish would have benefited from the addition of a potato or similar accompaniment to enhance its substance. The front portion of the langoustine was slightly undercooked and cold, creating a somewhat slimy texture. Overall, however, the dish was satisfactory and sufficient, even without an appetizer. The white wine, “Autour de Fuissè” from 2010, paired adequately with the meal, although the price point seemed slightly elevated for its overall quality.
Baked fillets of plaice and langoustine with Jerusalem artichoke puree and browned soy butter. Photo: senses.se
The meat, a beef tenderloin, was expertly prepared and cooked to a perfect medium-rare, resulting in a juicy and flavorful cut. The chanterelles and lentils were well-executed accompaniments, although the oxtail proved slightly too salty for our palate. The mashed potatoes, served separately, were exceptional, boasting a creamy texture and optimal consistency. The red wine, a Gigondas, while not ideal for casual socializing, complemented the beef effectively.
Beef tenderloin with chanterelles, Puy lentils, oxtail and bourdelais sauce. Photo: senses.seIn conclusion, Himlen offers a generally positive dining experience and a remarkable view of Stockholm, particularly Södermalm. However, establishments with premium locations must remain diligent in maintaining quality. While views and ambiance are valuable assets, they cannot compensate for deficiencies in the cuisine. While the food was well-prepared, its quality did not entirely justify the price difference compared to other comparable restaurants with less impressive views or locations. Himlen should also prioritize comprehensive staff training and address the current seating policy, ensuring guests are aware of the option to be seated upstairs near the bar, which, incidentally, offers exceptional cocktails.
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